Amritsar and the Guru’s Turban

Our passage back to India was fairly routine: we bussed it to the border, crossed, bussed it to Gorakpur (on which we met aalway couple- what are the odds?), waited until 6 am for our 11pm train on the rat frequented platform, eventually arrived in Lucknow with no time to explore but what a nice railway station- we’d recommend a visit! We eventually arrived in Amritsar via another overnight train…phew!

What a new Indian experience! I’m not sure if Nepal revived us or our attitudes have drastically but everything seemed mystical, the people extremely friendly and the place almost clean (well- less filthy). Punjab (Northwestern state) is known for its friendly people and we’d like to highlight this claim. Their genuineness, warmth and willingness to help us was amazing! The main reason for visiting Amritsar is to visit the Golden Temple- the Sikh’s holiest shrine.

Sikhism is the religion of the majority of the Punjabi people. It’s the one with all the Gurus, topknots and turbans. It’s a belief in the equality of all beings that lies at the heart of Sikhism. They are a truly inclusive people and this is evident in a visit to the Golden Temple. For a start, there is no entrance fee. People from all creeds, sects and walks of life are welcome as pilgrims or visitors we must first remove our shoes, wash our feet and cover our heads with the scarves provided thus enabling us worthy to enter the stunning complex. It appears like a Taj Mahal for the every man. The Golden Temple floating in the centre of the sacred pool is supposed to be gilded with 750kgs of pure gold!

A bridge over the pool leads to the temple, this bridge is a throbbing heaving queue of people which we accidentally avoided. We somehow managed to follow a few old men down the OUT queue and into the side door of the temple (walking all the while past the 2 hour long queue of friendly people). Inside we witnessed a live televised guru chanting, singing and praying. We couldn’t stay long inside as the queue and attendants ushered you into the upper chambers. The atmosphere was electrically charged with spirituality. We arrived as the Gurus were singing and the whole crowd joined in peacefully, joyously in unison. It was a priviledge to share the experience and one we will never forget. Back outside we felt like Guru Malachy and Stephanie as asmany photos were taken of us as of the temple.

In the temple complex you can stay in large dorms or eat in the canteen all for free or for a welcome donation- although we opted for a room in town.